• Source: Lanvin

Lanvin (French: [lɑ̃vɛ̃]) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin in Paris. It is the oldest French fashion house still in operation. Since 2018, it has been a subsidiary of Shanghai-based Lanvin Group.




History






= Under Jeanne Lanvin (1889–1946)

=
The House of Lanvin was created in 1889 with a millinery shop at 16 Rue Boissy-d’Anglas. In 1893 she acquired 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Created by Jeanne Lanvin, Lanvin was born in 1867 and had started a small millinery on Rue du Marche Saint Honore in 1885.
In 1897 Lanvin gave birth to her daughter and only child, Marguerite. Marguerite became Lanvin's muse and she started making clothing for Marguerite. This eventually lead to the establishment of a children's clothing line in 1908.
In 1909 Lanvin joined the Chambre Syndicat de la Couture, formally making her a couturier. Along with this she expanded to women's clothing.
In collaboration with Armand-Albert Rateau, an interior design store was opened in 1920.



Logo

The Lanvin logo was inspired by a photograph which depicts Lanvin and her daughter wearing matching outfits at a costume ball in 1907. The logo was drawn in 1923 by French illustrator Paul Iribe. As stated by Alber Elbaz, “It's not a lion, and it's not a horse. It's a mother and a daughter, I find the logo very emotional."

A dye factory opens in 1923 located in Nanterre, the factory was created to make exclusive colours for the company.
Lanvin Parfums was created in 1924, however perfumes had been released before the creation of the company. Mon Péché (My Sin) was released in 1925 formulated by Maria Zède (Madame Z) and André Fraysse. Released first in France and then the USA (as My Sin) where it was a huge success.
In 1926 men's, fur and lingerie lines were launched.
The fragrance Arpège was later launched in 1927, becoming Lanvin's signature scent. The perfume was created to celebrate her daughter Marguerite's (by now a musician) thirtieth birthday with the title translating to arpeggio in English. It later developed the tagline "Promise her anything, but give her Arpège".




= After Jeanne Lanvin (1946–present)

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When Lanvin died in 1946, her daughter Marguerite (by then known as Countess Marie-Blanche de Polignac) became director of Jeanne Lanvin and Lanvin Parfums. Because Marguerite died childless in 1958 the ownership of the house went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin.
Lanvin Parfums merged with Charles of the Ritz in 1964. The company was purchased by Squibb in 1971, however in 1978 Lanvin was separated from Charles of the Ritz and sold. The Lanvin family kept its ownership of the fashion division.
In 1989 a controlling stake in Lanvin was sold to Midland Bank. Along with this Claude Montana became the designer for the brands haute couture division. His first collection was shown in January 1990.



L'Oréal ownership (1990–2001)

Orcofi (a holding company created by Henry Racamier) and L'Oréal purchased Lanvin in 1990, from Midland Bank and the Lanvin family. L'Oréal increased its ownership of Lanvin in 1994 to a 66% stake, becoming the majority owners. Orofci continued to own a 34% stake in the brand. In 1995 the stake became 94%. Finally in 1996 L'Oréal purchased the entirety of the company.
Claude Montana left the house in 1992 and with this the haute couture line was shuttered.
In 1995 Ocimar Versolato was appointed as designer for the women's ready-to-wear line, he showed his first collection in March 1996. Versolato created an evening wear line under the Lanvin name for Bergdorf Goodman in 1996.



Harmonie ownership (2001–2018)

Lanvin was purchased by investor group Harmonie S.A. in August 2001. The group was headed by Taiwanese media magnate Wang Shaw-lan. However, in 2003 Wang bought out the other investors of Harmonie S.A.
Joix Corporatic became the ready-to-wear licence holder in Japan in 2005, with a retail value of €50 million. In Japan, Lanvin clothes are a licence held by Itochu and in 2007 made around $280 million in sales from Lanvin-branded clothes, more than the house made.
The perfume side of the company was sold in 2007 to Interparfums.
On 4 December 2009, Lanvin opened their first US boutique in Bal Harbour, Florida. The last American store had closed in the early 1990s.
In 2011, Lanvin sales reached €203 million. In 2012, Lanvin Ralph Bartel increased his stake in the brand to 25 percent with a capital increase of 17.5 million euros.
On 20 November 2013, Lanvin became the official tailor of Arsenal FC.
On 28 October 2015, Lanvin announced that Elbaz was no longer at the company, due to differences of opinion with the shareholders. He was replaced by Bouchra Jarrar in March 2016. Jarrar left the following year and was succeeded by Olivier Lapidus, who departed on 23 March 2018, after only two seasons. Lapidus' successor was not named upon his exit.



Fosun International ownership (2018–present)

Shanghai-based Fosun International became the owner of Lanvin in February 2018. This was after they acquired the shares of Wang and Bartel (who owned 75 percent and 25 percent respectively). After the acquisition Jean-Philippe Hecquet was appointed CEO, however after 18 months he stepped down in March 2020.
Fosun Fashion Group (the subsidiary of Fosun which owns Lanvin) was renamed to Lanvin Group in October 2021. The group was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2023. The group was valued at US$1.5 billion.
Lanvin Lab was launched in 2023. Lanvin Lab collaborates with others for mini-collections the first was with rapper Future.
On 11 June 2024, Vogue reported that Lanvin would reveal a new creative director in the coming days. On the 27th of June it was announced that Peter Copping would become the brands artistic director, leading both the womenswear and menswear collections.




Creative directors since 2001






= Alber Elbaz

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In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors. In 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin's favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco (Suzy Menkes, 2005.).
On 2 September 2010, it was announced by H&M that Lanvin would be their guest designer collaboration for the Winter 2010 collection. The collection would be available to view beginning 4 November 2010 at HM.com. The collection would then be available to buy in 200 stores worldwide, on 20 November, with a first look sale the day before exclusively at the H&M store in Las Vegas. The main face of the collection video was supermodel Natasha Poly.




= Lucas Ossendrijver

=

In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was appointed the head of the men's line. The 2006 men's ready-to-wear collection was inspired by a Jean-Luc Godard film. He launched the first LANVIN urban sneakers, now with their patent leather toe caps, while presenting his AW 2006 collections; the shoes later became available in women's collections. While enjoying a revitalized reputation in luxury, Lanvin received mainstream press in the United States in May 2009 when Michelle Obama was photographed wearing a popular line of Lanvin's sneakers made of suede with grosgrain ribbon laces and metallic pink toe caps while volunteering at a Washington, D.C. food bank. The sneaker shoes were reportedly retailed at $540.




= Bouchra Jarrar

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Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director by Lanvin in March 2016. In 2017, and with the preparation of only two ready-to-wear collections, Jarar stepped down from her position. Upon her departure, Lanvin released the following statement: "Lanvin and Bouchra Jarrar have mutually decided to put an end to their collaboration".




= Bruno Sialelli

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French designer Bruno Sialelli was named the new creative director of Lanvin in January 2019. Lanvin revealed in a statement that Sialelli's appointment marks a "pivotal new direction". Sialelli had worked with Jonathan Anderson at Spanish brand Loewe prior to the appointment and was presumed to be facing "great pressure to turn things around for the Maison." In April 2023 he left Lanvin after four years as creative director.




= Peter Copping

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In June 2024, Peter Copping was announced as the next artistic director of Lanvin, effective September 2024. His previous work experience includes leading Balenciaga's return to Haute Couture, and creative director positions at Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci.




Directors


1946–1950, Lanvin's daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac, owner and director
1942–1950, Marie-Blanche's cousin Jean Gaumont-Lanvin (Colombes, 1908–Versailles, 1988), director general
1950–1955, Daniel Gorin (Paris, 1891–Paris, 1972), director general
1959, Marie-Blanche's cousin Yves Lanvin, owner; Madame Yves Lanvin, president.
1989–1990, Léon Bressler, chairperson
1990–1993, Michel Pietrini, chairperson
1993–1995, Loïc Armand, chairperson
1995–2001, Gérald Asaria, chairperson
2001–2004, Jacques Lévy, director general
2009–2013, Thierry Andretta
2013–2017, Michèle Huiban
2017–2018, Nicolas Druz
2018–2020, Jean-Philippe Hecquet
2020, Joann Cheng (ad interim)
2021, Arnaud Bazin
2021–today, Siddhartha Shukla, CEO




Designers


1946–1958: Marie-Blanche de Polignac, director general and designer
1950–1963: Antonio del Castillo, women's collections
1960–1980: Bernard Devaux, hats, scarves, haute couture; women's "Diffusions" line 1963–1980,
1964–1984: Jules-François Crahay (Liège, 1917–1988), haute couture collections and "Boutique de Luxe"
1972: Christian Benais, men's ready-to-wear collection
1976–1991: Patrick Lavoix, men's ready-to-wear collections
1981–1989: Maryll Lanvin, ready-to-wear, first haute couture in 1985 and women's "Boutique" collections
1989–1990: Robert Nelissen, women's ready-to-wear collections
1990–1992: Claude Montana, five haute-couture collections
1990–1992: Eric Bergère, women's ready-to-wear collections
1992–2001: Dominique Morlotti, women's and men's ready-to-wear collections
1996–1998: Ocimar Versolato, women's ready-to-wear collections
1998–2002: Cristina Ortiz, women's ready-to-wear collections
2002–2015: Alber Elbaz, artistic director of all creative activities
2003–2006: Martin Krutzki, designer of men's ready-to-wear
2006–2018: Lucas Ossendrijver, men's collections
2016–2017: Bouchra Jarrar, women's collections
2017–2018: Olivier Lapidus, women's collections
2018–2019: Estrella Archs, women's collections
2019–2023: Bruno Sialelli, women's and men's collections
2024–present: Peter Copping, women's and men's collections




Advertising


For its advertising campaigns, Lanvin has been working with photographers like Craig McDean (2000) and Steven Meisel (1999, 2012, 2022).




References



Lanvin – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory

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