• Source: Andrzej Zawada

Andrzej Zawada (born Maria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polish mountaineer, expedition leader and pioneer of winter Himalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader of numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographs from expeditions, co-author of Alpinist books. Honorary member of the British Alpine Club, French Groupe de Haute Montagne and American The Explorers Club.
Grandson of Tomasz Rawicz-Zawada young participant of January Uprising in 1863. Son of Filip Rawicz Zawada, Polish legionnaire and consul.
Zawada studied physics and geophysics in Wrocław and Warsaw where he received a degree in seismology. From 1955–1993, he worked at the Institute of Geophysics of the Polish Academy of Sciences.




Selected expeditions


In 1959, he was part of the expedition team with Kazimierz Olech who made the first successful winter crossing of the main ridge of Tatra Mountains, which took 19 days.
In 1971, as chief he led the Polish expedition to make the first ascent to the Khunyang Chhish (7,852 m, 25,761 ft) in the Karakoram. He also reached the summit.
With Tadeusz Piotrowski he made the first winter ascent of Noshaq (7,492 m, 24,580 ft) in the Hindu Kush (13 February 1973). It was the world's first winter climb above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft).
On 25 December 1974, Zawada became the first man in the world to exceed a height of 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) in the winter, alongside Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, by reaching a height of 8,250 metres (27,070 ft) on Lhotse.
In 1977, Zawada made the first crossing of the 1,600-metre (5,200 ft) north wall of Koh-i Mandaras (6,631 m, 21,755 ft).
In February 1980, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy made the first winter ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m, 29,029 ft), the highest mountain on Earth. Zawada led the expedition. It was the first winter ascent of a peak above 8,000 m.
In May 1980, Zawada led an expedition of Everest with Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka and ascended a new route.
In February 1985 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski made the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu. It is the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander using a new route. Zawada led the expedition.
On December 31, 1988 Zawada led the expedition where Krzysztof Wielicki made the first successful winter ascent of Lhotse.




Books


Marcinek, Kazimierz; Zawada, Andrzej (1973). Ostatni atak na Kunyang Chhish (in Polish). Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Sport i Turystyka. OCLC 7233551.




References






External links


Andrzej Zawada at IMDb

Kata Kunci Pencarian:

• Noshaq
• Lhotse
• Polandia
• Gunung Everest
• Andrzej Zawada
• Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich
• Mount Everest
• Zawada (surname)
• Broad Peak (film)
• K2
• Lądek-Zdrój
• Kunyang Chhish
• Lhotse
• Nanga Parbat