• Source: Yuji Hirayama

Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ; born February 23, 1969) is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 (becoming the first Asian climber to win the title) and in 2000. He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.




Climbing career


On November 25, 1999, Hirayama onsighted Mortal Kombat (Castillon, FRA), which gained some historical relevance because it was initially believed to be the world's first onsight of an 8c (5.14b); however, a few days later, Hirayama himself downgraded it to 8b+, which has become the consensus grading.
On September 29, 2002, Hirayama and Hans Florine climbed The Nose in 2:48:55, setting a new speed record.
In 2003, he made the first ascent of a proposed 9a+ (5.15a) called Flat Mountain.
On October 6, 2004, he onsighted the 8c (5.14b) graded White Zombie in Baltzola Cave, ESP. This was the world's first-ever onsight of an 8c in history.). On 2005 Aug 10, Tomas Mrazek had the 2nd 8c onsight, Pata Negra at Rodellar in eastern Spain.
In 2007, his El Capitan Nose record was broken by the German brothers Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber. The Hubers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2 hours, 45 minutes and 45 seconds. On July 2, 2008, Hirayama and Florine retook the record in a time of 2:43:33. Then on October 12, 2008, they lowered the record to 2:37:05.
In 2008, he made the third ascent of boulder problem, Uma V14 (8B+) at Shiobara, and the first ascent of Ginga V14 (8B+) at Kanoto. In 2009, he made the 6th ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, British Columbia.
In 2012, he freed a multi-pitch route called Pogulian Do Koduduo in the Mount Kinabalu National Park in Borneo with one pitch at 9a.




Business career


In 2010, Hirayama opened "Climb Park Base Camp", a climbing gym in Saitama prefecture, Japan.




See also


History of rock climbing
List of grade milestones in rock climbing




References






External links


Yuji Hirayama at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (archive)
Yuji Hirayama on Instagram
Onsight of White Zombie

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